DIY Pool Kits Australia: What Are the Steps of a DIY Pool Project in Australia?

Step 1: Budget – Getting It Right from the Start

The first step in any DIY pool project is to plan thoroughly. Here’s what to keep in mind:

So, you’ve decided to DIY your pool—awesome! But before you start digging up your backyard like an overenthusiastic wombat, proper planning is key. Get this part right, and you’ll save yourself from budget blowouts, timeline headaches, and a whole lot of stress.
Here’s what you need to know before the first shovel hits the dirt.

Know Your Local Rules – Don’t Let Regulations Catch You Out 

Before you lock in a pool size or location, check your local council regulations and if you have any easements on your property. Every council has rules on how close your pool can be to fences, homes, and sewer lines.

Where to start?

• Jump onto www.byda.com.au for free service diagrams
• If your backyard is tight on space, talk to a private certifier—they can help fast-track approvals and make sure your plan ticks all the boxes.

Easements matter!
You can’t install a pool over a main sewer, water pipes, or drainage channels. If an easement is nearby, check how far your pool needs to be from it—every council is different!

Assess Your Backyard – Can You Get Equipment In?

Next up—earthmoving equipment access:

• Ideal access: 3m wide (smooth sailing!)
• Doable but slower: 1.5m–3m (smaller equipment, longer excavation time)
• The absolute minimum: 900mm (possible, but prepare for extra time and costs).

Pro Tip: If your yard is on a slope and your in-ground pool is more than 300mm out of the ground, you’ll need retaining walls. Not keen on extra construction? Consider a semi or fully above-ground fibreglass pool like our patented Plug 'n' Play range—it skips the need for high retaining walls and backfill altogether.

Choosing the Right Pool Kit – Size, Shape & What Actually Fits

Bigger doesn’t always mean better. A 6m fibreglass pool is plenty of space for cooling off, playing Marco Polo, and lounging on pool floats without taking over your entire backyard.

• Grab some builder’s string line from Bunnings ($5) and mark out your pool size on the ground
• This lets you visualise how much space you’ll have left for a BBQ, outdoor seating, or a fire pit.

Setting a Budget – Know What You’re In For

Here’s a rough checklist to get you started:

• Pool Kit (including shell, filtration, and essential equipment)
• Council Permits (fees vary depending on location)
• Excavation & Soil Removal (tipping fees can add up!)
• Bedding & Backfill Materials (varies based on soil conditions)
• Crane Hire (allow for lifting over the house, tall trees etc)
• Concrete Bond Beam (reinforces pool stability)
• Temporary & Permanent Pool Fencing (legally required before filling the pool)
• Paving & Landscaping (unless you love a dirt backyard)
• Electrician (for pool pump and lighting)
• Plumber (if connecting a sand filter to sewer; not needed for a cartridge filter).

Pro Tip: Crane hire doesn’t have to break the bank! If your site has good access, you can get the job done with a Franna crane for as little as $500—way cheaper than lifting an 8,000kg concrete plunge pool!

Step 2: Permits & Compliance – Cutting Through the Red Tape

Alright, you’ve got your pool plan sorted—now it’s time for the not-so-fun but totally necessary step: permits and approvals.

No one gets excited about paperwork, but skipping this step can land you in hot water (and not the relaxing spa kind). Failing to meet council regulations could mean fines, delays, or—worst case scenario—having to rip out your brand-new pool.

The good news? It’s not as complicated as it sounds. Here’s how to get your approvals sorted without the headaches.

Get a Site Plan Drawn Up

Before you even think about filling out paperwork, you’ll need a site plan showing where your pool will sit concerning your house, fences, and underground services.

How to get one:

• Use a draftsman (quick & professional)
• Use a free online design tool (if you’re tech-savvy)
• Ask your DIY pool company for recommendations.

Pro Tip: Your site plan must include easements, sewer lines, and setback distances. If you’re not sure what applies to your property, a private certifier can help.

Apply for Your Permits

All councils in Australia require a permit before you start digging. You can apply directly to your council, and no, you don’t need to be Sherlock Holmes to figure it out.

Two ways to apply:

1. Go through your local council – Takes longer but saves money
2. Hire a private certifier – Costs extra however a private certifier can cut down waiting times and guide you through the process.

Submit the Right Paperwork

Each state has its own forms and engineering requirements. Your DIY pool company should provide all the pool specific documents, including:

• Engineering details for your specific pool shell
• Filtration system compliance info
• Any state-specific forms (e.g., Form 15 in QLD, Form 126 in VIC).

Pro Tip: Councils provide permit checklists on their websites. Print it off and tick each item as you go—it’ll save you time (and headaches).

Step 3: Preparing the Site – Dig Smart, Not Hard

Now comes the fun part—getting your backyard ready for your new pool. But before you start swinging a shovel like an overenthusiastic landscaper on a caffeine high, there are a few critical steps to make sure everything runs smoothly.

Excavation – Digging the Right Hole, the Right Way

The first rule of excavation? Don’t dig too early. You want to excavate no more than 7 days before installation to avoid collapses or turning your site into a giant mud pit if bad weather hits.

How deep do you need to dig?

• Your DIY pool company will provide a dig sheet with the exact dimensions
• Soil removal can get expensive—make sure your excavation quote includes tipping costs!

Capital city warning: In places like Melbourne and Sydney, tipping fees can be brutal, especially if the dump site is far away. Plan for this in your budget!

Pro Tip: If rain is on the forecast, hold off on excavation. Digging too early + a heavy downpour = a sloppy, expensive mess to rectify.

Soil Conditions – Know What You’re Working With

Not all soil is created equal. Some backyards are a dream to dig, while others fight you every step of the way.

What’s your soil type?

• Sandy soil – Easy to work with, drains well
• Clay soil – Expands and contracts, needs extra backfill for stability
• Rocky ground – May require heavy-duty excavation tools (and extra patience).

Pro Tip: If you’ve got clay-heavy soil, you’ll need to dig deeper and wider to allow for extra bedding and backfill. Ask your DIY pool company for engineering details specific to clay sites.

Creating a Solid Base – Bedding Layer Matters

Once the hole is dug, it’s time to lay the bedding material—the foundation that ensures your pool sits level and drains properly.

• Use the right material: Watch our How To videos about the type of bedding materials you can use, and how to level the bedding layer
• Check for level: The base needs to be level however not compacted. 

Pro Tip: Not sure if your base is level? Hire a laser level. They are cheap and easy to use.

Step 4: Delivery & Pool Placement – Crane Day!

This is it—the day your fibreglass pool shell arrives and gets lowered into place. It’s one of the most exciting (and nerve-wracking) moments of the project, but with the right prep, it’s a smooth ride.

The key? Good planning and the right crane for the job. Here’s how to make sure your pool lands exactly where it should—without stress, delays, or any “oh no” moments.

Pool Delivery – Get Your Site Ready

Fibreglass pools come pre-made (one of their biggest advantages), so once your site is prepped, it’s just a matter of getting the shell delivered and positioned.

Delivery Checklist:

• Access is clear – Remove any obstacles that could block the truck
• Crane pad is set up – Ensure a stable, level spot for the crane to operate
• Weather check – Strong winds? Heavy rain? If conditions are bad, reschedule
• Pool orientation confirmed – Double-check the layout before lifting!

Arranging Crane Hire – Choosing the Right One

Unless you’ve got Hulk-level strength, you’ll need a crane to lift and position your pool shell.

What kind of crane do you need?

• Good access? A Franna crane (cheapest option, starts from $500)
• Lifting over a two-storey house? A larger mobile crane (more expensive).

Be upfront about site restrictions (tight spaces, powerlines, trees). Surprise obstacles = higher crane costs.

Pro Tip: Ask your DIY pool company for the shell weight—this avoids paying for an oversized crane you don’t need.

Lifting & Positioning the Pool Shell

Now for the main event—lifting your pool into its final resting place.

What to expect:

• The crane team will attach lifting straps to the pre-installed anchor points and will guide the pool into position
• Check the shell is generally level before any backfill is added. It doesn’t have to be millimetre perfect. The levels can be raised during backfilling. If the shell is higher than planned, lift it out and adjust the bedding layer. 

Pro Tip: Quality fibreglass pools have dedicated lifting points. If your shell doesn’t, ask why and be very careful. Dropped fibreglass pool shells don’t bounce very well. 

Step 5: Initial Plumbing Connections – Simple, Straightforward & DIY-Friendly

Good news—you don’t need to be a plumber to install your pool’s plumbing! In fact, most of this step is straightforward DIY work, and we’ve got videos to show you through the process.

Step 1: Installing Your Pool Fittings

Main Fittings to Connect:

• Skimmer box – Where the pump draws water from the pool 
• Return jets – Circulates clean water back into the pool
• Suction lines – Pulls water from the pool to the pump for heating
• Additional features (if applicable) – Spa jets, deck jets etc.

How to secure fittings:

• Use Class 9 PVC pipe (stronger & made for pressure systems)
• Two-part pressure glue ensures a tight, leak-free bond
• Pressure-test everything before backfilling—because digging up a leak later is NOT fun.

Pro Tip: If your pool has spa jets or heating provisions, get the pipework in place now—even if you’re installing those features later. It’s way easier to add them now than after backfilling!

Step 2: Prepping for Equipment Hook-Up

At this stage, you don’t need to fully install the pump, filter, or chlorinator—but you should have all plumbing ready for when your electrician and plumber come in.

Equipment Checklist:

• Pump location decided – Near power & well-ventilated
• Filter type chosen – Sand filter (requires plumbing to sewer) or cartridge filter (doesn’t)
• Suction & return pipes run to equipment area – Makes hook-up easier later.

Pro Tip: Not sure what filtration system suits you? Sand filters are great for big families & heavy use. Cartridge filters are better for water conservation (no backwashing needed) however need to be cleaned more frequently than a sand filter.

Watch previews of our DIY Pool videos showing the installation of the fittings and hydrostatic valve

Step 9: Balancing the Pool Water – The Final Prep for a Perfect Swim

With your pool fully installed, it’s time to get the water crystal clear and swim-ready. Before balancing the water chemistry, you’ll need to remove any leftover dirt and debris from installation.

This step is quick and easy, but skipping it can lead to cloudy water, algae growth, or damage to your pool surface and equipment.

Here’s what to know before taking that first splash.

Removing Backfill & Debris with a Manual Vacuum

After installation, fine dust and debris from backfilling and construction may have settled on the pool floor. This won’t be picked up by your pool’s filtration and will ruin a brand new robot pool cleaner—a manual vacuum is the best way to clear it out.

How to Get Rid of Installation Debris:

• Use a manual vacuum (not an automatic cleaner — you’ll void your warranty)
• Vacuum to waste (if using a sand filter) to prevent clogging the filter
• Take your time — fine debris can cloud the water if disturbed too much.

Pro Tip: Use a skimmer box sock to stop larger stones and debris from slipping through the skimmer box basket.

Testing & Balancing Your Water

Once your pool is clean, it’s time to balance the water chemistry. 

Key Levels to Adjust (these are the top 3 to focus on initially):

• pH – Ideal range: 7.2 – 7.6 (Prevents irritation and equipment damage)
• Total Alkalinity – Ideal range: 80 – 120 ppm (Helps stabilise pH)
• Sanitiser (Chlorine) – Keeps water safe and bacteria-free.

What to Do:

• Use a pool water test kit or take a sample to a local pool shop for analysis
• Adjust chemicals gradually—small changes are better than big corrections.

Pro Tip: If you're using a saltwater or mineral chlorinator, don’t add salt all at once. Add it in stages and test levels to prevent overshooting the ideal range.

Running Your Filtration System

Your pool pump and filter should run continuously for the first 48 hours to properly circulate water and distribute chemicals. After that, you can adjust to a normal daily cycle based on usage and climate.

Things to keep in mind:

• Run time – Standard filtration time is 6–8 hours per day (shorter in winter / longer in summer)
• Monitor pressure – If pressure builds up in your filter, backwash (sand filter) or rinse (cartridge filter) as needed
• Keep an eye on clarity – If the water looks cloudy, re-test and adjust chemicals.

Pro Tip: A pool cover can reduce chlorine loss and help maintain water balance, especially in hot weather.